Habit Construction: a Pattern

Up through the 18th century most tailoring did not utilize patterns as we understand them today but rather utilized geometric principles chalked directly on the cloth. Beginning in the 16thC, to facilitate this process as well as to teach how to lay out garment pieces for efficient utilization of fabrics, cutting diagrams were produced.  Shown below are the cutting diagrams for friars habits that we have identified so far, taken from Spanish tailoring manuals from 1618, 1640, and 1720. All of these patterns are for rounded hoods with combined cowls as utilized by Observant Franciscans during the period. When transcribing them for use, adaptation to a pointed hood (Recollect friars, Capuchins, etc.) is accomplished by simply extending the top line of the hood and curving the line underneath gradually into the back of the neck.  Fuller directions on measuring, drafting, and construction will be coming in future posts.  In the meantime, enjoy these cutting diagrams.